Richard Wolak interviews Stephen Morrissey, Winner World Barista Championship of 2008.
How long did you train for the World Barista Championship?
I’m not sure. Because I stopped entering competitions to focus on college, I took a step back and was able to get familiar with competition in a different way. From coaching, judging, and even just being a spectator, I slowly built up an idea of the kind of performance I’d like to do. So you might say it took 3 years to develop the ideas, and then around 6 weeks of solid practice.
What inspired you to become a leader in the coffee industry as a barista?
The goal in competition was not so much to win, but to share my craft with other baristas in my own way on a global platform. The other big appeal for me was to have that all too rare experience of four customers who want to hear every single thing you say about your coffee.
In saying that, my attraction to competing came about from attending many competitions, seeing how much fun it can be, knowing it would make me a better barista.
Where and when was the first Barista championship you competed in? and when did you win the 2008 Irish Barista Championship?
The first time I ever competed was in 2003, placing second. I won the 2008 Irish Barista Competition in March of this year.
How did it feel to win 1st place at the World Barista Championship in Copenhagen, both on a personal and professional level?
At first all I could think about was how wrong this felt; I tend to dwell on how much more there is to learn in coffee rather than what I already know. Being given such a prestigious accolade seemed ill fitting at first, but I’m slowly coming around to realizing it as an opportunity for me to travel, and share what I’ve learnt so far with others who were as hungry to learn as me a few years ago.
Describe the drink you created as your "custom" drink in the World Barista Championship in 2008.
The drink was developed with Bea Vo, a wonderful pastry chef who has her own cafe in Bloomsbury in London. One of the best sig drinks I ever tasted was James’ Coffee and Donut, such a clever idea, perfect in its balance of flavours and one of the few drinks I wish I could have more often.
I wanted my drink to have this same approachable element, to use comforting flavours that would almost sell the drink themselves. The base was a chocolate chantilly, created by melting water and chocolate and then whisking them over an ice bath till they formed a moose. On top of this went a layer of cinnamon and vanilla panna cotta, and a blue berry jelly, two elements that re created the taste of a blueberry muffin.
I liked the idea of serving a drink that was completely unacceptable to the competition rules; three solids, and no coffee. To remedy this, I used a blow torch to melt down the panna cotta and jelly, and then poured an espresso over it to bring everything back to a liquid. Judges would stir, and then drink.
What was it like competing in the barista competition? Was it fun or stressful, or both?
I always wanted it to be fun, but the sense of pressure in the semis meant I got a little stressed. That said, I was so surprised to get into the finals, knowing I’d placed at least 6th, that I ended up relaxing a lot more and savoring every minute on stage.
Tell our readers about the Barista culture and coffee scene in Ireland?
Ireland in a way is no different to most other western countries, there is a strong cafe culture but only a few that focus on quality. Our percentage may be the same as the states, around 1% delivering the goods in the cup, which in our case equates to maybe three or four cafes.
However, I must admit I haven’t traveled much of my own country, and keep hearing of good cafes that I haven’t visited. So it’s quite possible we’re a lot better than I know.
What advice/tips do you have for Baristas just getting started?
Test everything you read, and always know what you’re serving tastes like. To develop as a barista for me means to develop your palate as well as your technique and theory.
Tell our readers what was involved in your training for the World Barista Championship in 2008.
I’m in the lucky position of being able to work closely with our roaster here at Square Mile Coffee, Anette Moldvaer. We had lots of ideas for possible coffees for the competition, but in the end went with our current espresso blend.
I worked extensively with James Hoffmann and Tim Styles in training for both the Irish and World Competitions. It is essential you have someone involved in your training to offer support, feedback and a hand in all the washing and cleaning; not to mention a guinea pig for tasting the early signature drink ideas.
What is your favorite food to complement your favorite espresso beverage?
Cake
What did you do before becoming a Barista?
In descending order; waiter, pizza chef, kitchen porter, leaflet delivery boy.
Do you have any mentors in the coffee industry and if so, who and why?
There have been a number of people who have helped guide me over the last few years, and I am currently lucky enough to work with two of them, Anette Moldvaer and James Hoffmann. Other great influences have been, Alistair Durie, Les Kuan, Robert Goble, Doug Zell, Kyle Glanville, Deaton Pigot and Aaron de Lazzer.
What interests do you have outside of the coffee business?
I enjoy cooking, traveling, good TV and cheap black tea with milk.
POSTED: Friday, July 04, 2008